Part of the appeal of woodworking, at least for a lot of people, is that it is something that you do by yourself. Working alone, with just your own thoughts as your companion, helps you to relax and allows your work to be a reflection of your inner self.
Having said that though, some of the most fun I have had while woodworking has been in a room full of people all working away. I don't know if I could do it all the time, but once in a while you need a different energy to keep things fresh.
That is why, when my wife Lee proposed that we work together on something, I was happy to oblige. She is a fantastic artist in her own right. You can check out her blog here and see more of her work here.
People have referred to pen making as the 'gateway drug' to wood turning. I understand that now. Making this first pen was a lot of fun. A big part of that was using a blank that Lee made using Alumilite casting resin. This pen was made using the five minute casting resin that dries to an opaque white colour. She added a swirl of blue dye to give it some visual interest. I want to go into more detail about the process we used to make the blanks for this pen, but I'm going to save that for another post.
This pen blank was made using the 24 - 48 hour casting resin, which dries clear. She added blue and red dyes to the blank but very little of the red made it to the centre of the blank so it all but disappeared on the lathe. The gold colour in the pen comes from the brass tubes of the pen kit. If you click on the picture you can see a cool 3-D effect that comes from the way the dye swirls through the clear resin. This pen was made using the standard technique of casting a rectangular blank and then drilling the blank to glue in the brass tubes with CA glue.
This pen was made with the five minute resin and red dye. We goofed up and didn't mix enough resin, so we had to do a second pour. The nice thing about this stuff is that it bonds to previous pours seamlessly. Colour matching is a little more difficult.
I made this box just for another example of a way to use these resins in woodworking. Lee poured the five minute resin into a flat mould and added colour and glitter.
It was hard to decide which side to use as the top of the box. In the end I went with the side that had more glitter, because I think that was Lee's intent.
Working with these resins and making pens has been a lot of fun. Like working with wood, you can never be sure exactly what the finished product will look like. You can, however, choose the colour combinations you want, add effects, and play with the resins in a way that you can't with wood. I will definitely be doing more projects with this stuff in the near (and distant) future.
Sunday, 18 November 2012
Tuesday, 9 October 2012
Bare Fence Posts & the Turnip of Destiny
Well, I finally got around to turning something.
This summer my wife and I spent most of our free time in July replacing the fence at the front of our house. When it came to the front gate we wanted to fancy it up a bit. We talked about options like a trellis or lights or some fancy post caps but didn't really settle on anything. So now the posts are bare on top and a lot taller than they really should be.
On the last weekend of July I attended the Saskatoon 2012 Wood Turning Symposium and saw a demonstration on how to do a barley twist by Beth Ireland. Although I was impressed by the versatility of her method, inspiration didn't really hit me at the time. It was only later that an idea of what to do with the gate posts started to form.
The image that eventually formed was that of a wooden candle flame. Although I'm not 100% sold on the giant candlestick look for the gate posts it became one of those things I had to do. Just to see if I could.
I started by creating a profile on my cad program and transferring it to cardboard as shown below.
When I turned the mahogany in the background to match the profile it came out like this.
I immediately christened it the Turnip of Destiny. Yes I am a total geek.
Once the shape was achieved it was time to lay out the twist. I started by making a copy of the template out of thin plywood and using it to mark off longitudinal lines on the turnip.
My lathe has an indexing wheel on it with 36 positions, or every 10 degrees of rotation. For every two lines you make you will get 1 helix, or twist, on your piece. I used every second position, giving me 18 lines and 9 helix. After marking the lines along the length I used the 1/2" increments on the first template to mark out the placement of the lines of latitude. A quick spin of the lathe takes the line all the way around.
Once the grid was marked out I used a cardboard straight edge to mark the diagonals.
If you were making a reed (or rope) style twist you should mark the diagonals starting from all 18 of the long lines but because I planned to make a fluted twist I took a short cut and only marked 9 helix.
As the diameter of the turnip changes the angle of the helix and the space between them also changes. This creates a cool effect as you go along.
Now it was time to pull out my weapons of choice to make the twists. These were a Microplane Rasp with a round blade and a small riffler.
I started with the rasp at the widest point of the turnip and worked my way downhill in both directions, trying to stay centred between the marked twists.
At the ends, where there is less room to work, I used the riffler.
When using the riffler it really pays to use as many of the teeth as possible. Because it is curved you can fall into the trap of just using a small portion. This cuts a few deep grooves, but then it slows down and looks like crap. If you use a curving stroke though, you use all the teeth and, because of the random pattern, it cuts faster and leaves a cleaner surface.
The pattern starts to emerge.
After sanding, two finished fence post finials.
In the end, the hardest part of this project was trying to make the turnips match the template. I really suck at making things match. It actually took longer to turn them than it did to shape the twists.
This summer my wife and I spent most of our free time in July replacing the fence at the front of our house. When it came to the front gate we wanted to fancy it up a bit. We talked about options like a trellis or lights or some fancy post caps but didn't really settle on anything. So now the posts are bare on top and a lot taller than they really should be.
On the last weekend of July I attended the Saskatoon 2012 Wood Turning Symposium and saw a demonstration on how to do a barley twist by Beth Ireland. Although I was impressed by the versatility of her method, inspiration didn't really hit me at the time. It was only later that an idea of what to do with the gate posts started to form.
The image that eventually formed was that of a wooden candle flame. Although I'm not 100% sold on the giant candlestick look for the gate posts it became one of those things I had to do. Just to see if I could.
I started by creating a profile on my cad program and transferring it to cardboard as shown below.
When I turned the mahogany in the background to match the profile it came out like this.
I immediately christened it the Turnip of Destiny. Yes I am a total geek.
Once the shape was achieved it was time to lay out the twist. I started by making a copy of the template out of thin plywood and using it to mark off longitudinal lines on the turnip.
My lathe has an indexing wheel on it with 36 positions, or every 10 degrees of rotation. For every two lines you make you will get 1 helix, or twist, on your piece. I used every second position, giving me 18 lines and 9 helix. After marking the lines along the length I used the 1/2" increments on the first template to mark out the placement of the lines of latitude. A quick spin of the lathe takes the line all the way around.
Once the grid was marked out I used a cardboard straight edge to mark the diagonals.
If you were making a reed (or rope) style twist you should mark the diagonals starting from all 18 of the long lines but because I planned to make a fluted twist I took a short cut and only marked 9 helix.
As the diameter of the turnip changes the angle of the helix and the space between them also changes. This creates a cool effect as you go along.
Now it was time to pull out my weapons of choice to make the twists. These were a Microplane Rasp with a round blade and a small riffler.
I started with the rasp at the widest point of the turnip and worked my way downhill in both directions, trying to stay centred between the marked twists.
At the ends, where there is less room to work, I used the riffler.
When using the riffler it really pays to use as many of the teeth as possible. Because it is curved you can fall into the trap of just using a small portion. This cuts a few deep grooves, but then it slows down and looks like crap. If you use a curving stroke though, you use all the teeth and, because of the random pattern, it cuts faster and leaves a cleaner surface.
The pattern starts to emerge.
After sanding, two finished fence post finials.
In the end, the hardest part of this project was trying to make the turnips match the template. I really suck at making things match. It actually took longer to turn them than it did to shape the twists.
Monday, 10 September 2012
My First Raised Panel Door
Two years ago I re-built the deck outside our back door. The old deck had lasted for 12 years, which I thought was pretty good for untreated spruce. It was starting to show its age though, so we re-built the frame with treated lumber and covered it with cedar. Everything was done except for the access door underneath. The deck was the last project after two years of nearly continuous renovation and fatigue had set in. Since the access door was not essential, it went on the 'do it soon' list and waited.
Fast forward almost two years. I had been working on projects like building fence and shingling the garden shed (By the way, if you ever need any help shingling, I'm busy that day) when a rainy Saturday put outdoor work on hold. Driven by the desire and opportunity to do something in the shop and the guilt of not being able to work outside, I hauled out my small pile of left over cedar...
and set to work.
I've had this router bit set since before my son was born (he'll be 10 this month) and never used it.
It was a cheap set. I bought it because I wanted to be able to make raised panel doors even though I had no plans to make any raised panel doors. This seemed like a good place to practise.
Going through my pile of wood I wasn't sure I had enough long pieces to make the panel and rails but since this wasn't going in my kitchen I figured I could get away with joining a couple of shorter pieces in the middle.
I started by jointing and planing everything to the proper thickness. At this point Norm would usually glue up the panel and set it aside to dry while he worked on the rails & stiles. My little voice told me that I might need those long pieces if I screwed up my rails so I saved them for later. Next, I set up the bit on the left in the picture above in the router table and made a test cut with a spare piece of cedar I had set aside for the purpose. This is the result.
I made another cut on the other side thinking that I could have two sides to test the set up with the next router bit. This is what happens when you don't pay attention...
This is why you do test pieces. Anyway, I ran one side of both the railes and the stiles through so they all had this profile, making sure they were face down and inside against the fence. That part all went fine.
The next step is to make a negative cut on the ends of the rails so that they fit into this profile on the stiles. This is done with the bit on the right side of the photo. In order to keep the rail square to the fence I made this mitre guide.
After a few test cuts I ran the rails through. This is the way the rails and stiles fit togrther.
Hmm... not too bad. Here's the whole frame dry fit together.
Now I can start on the panel without fear that I will have to cut it apart to make new rails. With everything properly jointed there are enough full length pieces to make the panel with 1/2" extra. I cut slots for biscuits, even though I really didn't think I needed them. Sometimes you just want to play with your toys.
I glued the panel together with Gorilla Glue (because it's waterproof) and let it dry overnight.
Now it was time to bring out the big boy router bit, the centre one of the set, to make the profile on the panel. I really liked using this bit because after the panel passed over it the bit created enough of a breeze to blow all the sawdust off the surface of the router table. I used several passes, raising the bit a little each time, to 'raise' the panel. I then used a straight cutting bit to cut a rabbet on the underside of the edge so it would fit into the groove on the frame.
Now it was time to assemble it all and see how it all fit together. I slid the panel into one of the rails. That was fine. Stiles go on the ends... A bit snug but it all fits. Slide in the top rail... It doesn't go in all the way... What the..? AUGHHH! I forgot to cut off that extra 1/2" of width on the panel! Boy, did I feel dumb. At least it was too wide and not too narrow. I trimmed it on the table saw and repeated the previous paragraph on the new edge. I also used my miniature edge plane to shorten the panel just a bit.
The second fitting came together the way it was supposed to so I glued it up and let it set.
So, after two years, the door is finally in place. I didn't realize the huge error I had made, however, until my wife looked at it and asked "So... You can make cupboard doors now?"
Fast forward almost two years. I had been working on projects like building fence and shingling the garden shed (By the way, if you ever need any help shingling, I'm busy that day) when a rainy Saturday put outdoor work on hold. Driven by the desire and opportunity to do something in the shop and the guilt of not being able to work outside, I hauled out my small pile of left over cedar...
and set to work.
I've had this router bit set since before my son was born (he'll be 10 this month) and never used it.
It was a cheap set. I bought it because I wanted to be able to make raised panel doors even though I had no plans to make any raised panel doors. This seemed like a good place to practise.
Going through my pile of wood I wasn't sure I had enough long pieces to make the panel and rails but since this wasn't going in my kitchen I figured I could get away with joining a couple of shorter pieces in the middle.
I started by jointing and planing everything to the proper thickness. At this point Norm would usually glue up the panel and set it aside to dry while he worked on the rails & stiles. My little voice told me that I might need those long pieces if I screwed up my rails so I saved them for later. Next, I set up the bit on the left in the picture above in the router table and made a test cut with a spare piece of cedar I had set aside for the purpose. This is the result.
I made another cut on the other side thinking that I could have two sides to test the set up with the next router bit. This is what happens when you don't pay attention...
This is why you do test pieces. Anyway, I ran one side of both the railes and the stiles through so they all had this profile, making sure they were face down and inside against the fence. That part all went fine.
The next step is to make a negative cut on the ends of the rails so that they fit into this profile on the stiles. This is done with the bit on the right side of the photo. In order to keep the rail square to the fence I made this mitre guide.
After a few test cuts I ran the rails through. This is the way the rails and stiles fit togrther.
Hmm... not too bad. Here's the whole frame dry fit together.
Now I can start on the panel without fear that I will have to cut it apart to make new rails. With everything properly jointed there are enough full length pieces to make the panel with 1/2" extra. I cut slots for biscuits, even though I really didn't think I needed them. Sometimes you just want to play with your toys.
I glued the panel together with Gorilla Glue (because it's waterproof) and let it dry overnight.
Now it was time to bring out the big boy router bit, the centre one of the set, to make the profile on the panel. I really liked using this bit because after the panel passed over it the bit created enough of a breeze to blow all the sawdust off the surface of the router table. I used several passes, raising the bit a little each time, to 'raise' the panel. I then used a straight cutting bit to cut a rabbet on the underside of the edge so it would fit into the groove on the frame.
Now it was time to assemble it all and see how it all fit together. I slid the panel into one of the rails. That was fine. Stiles go on the ends... A bit snug but it all fits. Slide in the top rail... It doesn't go in all the way... What the..? AUGHHH! I forgot to cut off that extra 1/2" of width on the panel! Boy, did I feel dumb. At least it was too wide and not too narrow. I trimmed it on the table saw and repeated the previous paragraph on the new edge. I also used my miniature edge plane to shorten the panel just a bit.
The second fitting came together the way it was supposed to so I glued it up and let it set.
So, after two years, the door is finally in place. I didn't realize the huge error I had made, however, until my wife looked at it and asked "So... You can make cupboard doors now?"
Saturday, 4 August 2012
I Wanna Turn... Something...
So I spent last weekend at the Saskatoon 2012 Wood turning Symposium. Wow. I am totally psyched to do some turning. I just can't decide what I want to do first.
I really felt that the symposium offered a great blend of instruction (this is how you make this), techniques (here's some things to try on your next piece), and inspiration (try to come up with an original idea!). When you put all of these together my creative juices really start to flow. Watch this space in the future for pieces influenced by the likes of Mark Sfirri, Jimmy Clewes, Beth Ireland, and Mike Hosaluk. If you know wood turning in North America, you know that's some pretty shameless name-dropping. But really, they were all there and I attended sessions with all of them and more.
How about a few pictures from the weekend?
I just noticed I have no pictures of the 'wacky bat' turned by Mark Sfirri. That's really too bad because it gave me a couple of ideas that I'm dying to try. It's too bad I won't be able to show what inspired them, assuming I actually get them done.
Another thing that I have been thinking of, in relation to the work of others, is this: Where is the line between 'inspired by' and 'blatant rip-off'? And where do I want to fall? In the case of the boxes in the picture above, I thought it would be cool to add a third level between the top and bottom. Although the result would be something different it would still be pretty obvious where the idea came from. I find now, suddenly, that I am not entirely comfortable with that. It's really not any different from a lot of other things I have made, including the planes Ive shown on this blog.
I guess as long a credit is given when it's due it isn't a bad thing, and it's sometimes necessary to copy the work of others to learn a new skill. Ultimately though, you need to leave a little of your self, your soul, in a piece to make it really satisfying. How you do that is up to you.
I really felt that the symposium offered a great blend of instruction (this is how you make this), techniques (here's some things to try on your next piece), and inspiration (try to come up with an original idea!). When you put all of these together my creative juices really start to flow. Watch this space in the future for pieces influenced by the likes of Mark Sfirri, Jimmy Clewes, Beth Ireland, and Mike Hosaluk. If you know wood turning in North America, you know that's some pretty shameless name-dropping. But really, they were all there and I attended sessions with all of them and more.
How about a few pictures from the weekend?
A barley twist created by Beth Ireland
| An attempted panorama shot of the instant gallery. This didn't work as well as I wanted it to. Too close. |
Beth Ireland describing how she came to create the bowl in the picture.
The non-wood parts are epoxy resin and polymer clay.
Mike Hosaluk hollowing out a ladle. That blur by his shoulder is the handle going around.
Finished product.
A garden of flowers made by Andrew Glazebrook.
And more of Andrew's work.
A pair of Asian influenced boxes by Jimmy Clewes
Another thing that I have been thinking of, in relation to the work of others, is this: Where is the line between 'inspired by' and 'blatant rip-off'? And where do I want to fall? In the case of the boxes in the picture above, I thought it would be cool to add a third level between the top and bottom. Although the result would be something different it would still be pretty obvious where the idea came from. I find now, suddenly, that I am not entirely comfortable with that. It's really not any different from a lot of other things I have made, including the planes Ive shown on this blog.
I guess as long a credit is given when it's due it isn't a bad thing, and it's sometimes necessary to copy the work of others to learn a new skill. Ultimately though, you need to leave a little of your self, your soul, in a piece to make it really satisfying. How you do that is up to you.
Sunday, 15 July 2012
It's About Time...
OK, so it took me about four months, but the spokeshave that I alluded to a while back is finally done. Well, all done but sharpening the bevel, that's a subject for another post. Here is my list of excuses in no particular order: Back pain, foot pain, tax pain, Wood '12, yard work, building fence, and general laziness.
The shave is made using a kit from Lee Valley and the wood came from a pallet. After working with it I decided it was poplar. It's finished with three coats of tung oil.
You may notice that the lines are not exactly those of the traditional shave in the background. I wanted this shave to have an aggressive look, almost evil. Here's another shot of the front.
The shape is not just for looks though. Ergonomics played a big roll in determining the way the shave was shaped. If you look at the grip that I use you can see that my fingers fit naturally on the shave in a way that they can't on the traditional shave.
On the back side those walnut plugs cover up a couple of nail holes. They also add a sort of 'thumbs go here' target reference.
Finally, here is that brass strip I was posting about earlier.
Yeah, I overdid the polishing, but I did get a nice, reflective surface.
The shave is made using a kit from Lee Valley and the wood came from a pallet. After working with it I decided it was poplar. It's finished with three coats of tung oil.
You may notice that the lines are not exactly those of the traditional shave in the background. I wanted this shave to have an aggressive look, almost evil. Here's another shot of the front.
The shape is not just for looks though. Ergonomics played a big roll in determining the way the shave was shaped. If you look at the grip that I use you can see that my fingers fit naturally on the shave in a way that they can't on the traditional shave.
On the back side those walnut plugs cover up a couple of nail holes. They also add a sort of 'thumbs go here' target reference.
Finally, here is that brass strip I was posting about earlier.
Yeah, I overdid the polishing, but I did get a nice, reflective surface.
Monday, 2 July 2012
Exotic Wood Close to Home
Woodworkers love exotic woods. Vivid colors and strong grains catch the eye and can give a piece that wow factor we all want. Wood from far away places like Africa, South America, and Australia add extra cachet to your work.
Exotic can also be in the eye of the beholder, I've found. A friend told me about a time he was on vacation in the Carribean and watched a worker use a sledge hammer to drive a beam of purpleheart into place. He said it almost made him cry.
In that spirit I would like to tell you about some extremely rare wood that I recently harvested.
That tall spindly thing between the houses is an apple tree. It is shaded from the east by my neighbor's house, from the south by the large pine at the front of the picture, and from the west by large trees on the other side of the yard. As part of our plan to rejuvenate this side of the yard these two trees, along with two more, are coming out. (Before you get too upset about four trees being cut down, you should know that this still leaves eight trees in my front yard alone. If you are still upset, come over and rake leaves this fall.)
There should be enough there for at least eight bowls, although I hear fruit wood is also good for making spokshaves. That rings a bell for some reason...
Whatever I choose to make from this tree, no one else will have wood quite like this, and that's about as exotic as you can get. I have a couple of other 'exotic' woods in my collection already. These pieces are made from a mountain ash that grew in my back yard:
This bowl came from a big leaf maple burl that grew in the back alley two doors down.
No, I didn't cut it down in the middle of the night. I happened to see the guy cutting it down and offerred to help if he gave ms some of the wood. He gave me a piece about two feet in diameter and three feet tall, covered in burl. It was all I could do to roll it over to my yard. He said a friend of his was going to take the rest for fire wood. Doesn't that almost make you cry?
Exotic can also be in the eye of the beholder, I've found. A friend told me about a time he was on vacation in the Carribean and watched a worker use a sledge hammer to drive a beam of purpleheart into place. He said it almost made him cry.
In that spirit I would like to tell you about some extremely rare wood that I recently harvested.
That tall spindly thing between the houses is an apple tree. It is shaded from the east by my neighbor's house, from the south by the large pine at the front of the picture, and from the west by large trees on the other side of the yard. As part of our plan to rejuvenate this side of the yard these two trees, along with two more, are coming out. (Before you get too upset about four trees being cut down, you should know that this still leaves eight trees in my front yard alone. If you are still upset, come over and rake leaves this fall.)
There should be enough there for at least eight bowls, although I hear fruit wood is also good for making spokshaves. That rings a bell for some reason...
Whatever I choose to make from this tree, no one else will have wood quite like this, and that's about as exotic as you can get. I have a couple of other 'exotic' woods in my collection already. These pieces are made from a mountain ash that grew in my back yard:
This bowl came from a big leaf maple burl that grew in the back alley two doors down.
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